Richmond's Black Heritage

We’re at the eve of Black History Month, and many people are looking for informative, interesting and fun getaways. I knew that Richmond, Virginia had been the capital of the Confederacy, but I was surprised and impressed by the scope of its rich African American heritage. First of all, I was taken aback to hear that the city was saved from burning during the Civil War by General U.S. Grant’s “colored” troops. I learned that and more when I recently visited Richmond. The city offers a treasury of sites geared to African American interests. But if you’re pressed for time, I recommend the following five venues.

The American Civil War Center

Located in the historic Tredegar Gun Foundry is the American Civil War Center, a museum that explores the Civil War as seen from three perspectives: Confederate, Union and African American. It’s the first museum to feature all three viewpoints. I discovered so much more there than I ever did in my history classes. Allow at least two hours to absorb the information from the state-of-the-art interactive displays, films and interesting artifacts. 

Maymont

Experience what domestic servitude was like at a southern estate when you visit Maymont. Tour the extraordinary mansion that’s decorated in the lavish Gilded Age style. After seeing “Upstairs,” be sure to venture “Downstairs” to tour the area where the African American staff worked. An exhibition called “In Service and Beyond” focuses on the actual people who served the household. I was fortunate to meet and talk to Doris Walker Wilson, the daughter of Maymont’s former head-cook. She shared antidotes about her mother, grandmother, the other help and the Dooleys, who owned the house. “I’m proud that they worked here,” Mrs. Wilson said. Their labor enabled her to be the first in the family to attend college.

BlackHistory and Cultural Center of Virginia 

You will find out which African Americans made their mark in old Richmond as you make your way through the building that’s located in the historic African American neighborhood of Jackson Ward. As you peruse the visual and written records, you’ll understand why Black Richmond became known as the “Harlem of the South” and also as the “Black Wall Street.” While there, view the changing exhibits that feature contemporary African American artists.

“Box” Brown’s Box

Fit yourself into the replica of the box that held the slave, Henry “Box” Brown, as he shipped himself to Philadelphia and freedom in 1849. He became an abolitionist who served as a speaker for Philadelphia’s Anti-Slavery Society. The metal reproduction is located along Canal Walk near the 14^th Street Bridge.

Richmond Slave Trail

Walk the Richmond Slave Trail by torchlight. Follow the riverside path where enslaved Africans traveled as they disembarked in Richmond in the dark of night. The route runs from the former port to the place of the former slave market. As you walk the trail, a re-enactor who plays the slave driver shouts and threatens you (the slave) in order to recreate the grim tableau. Even using my imagination, I knew I was well fed, my feet were well shod and the actors were not going to strike me. The experience was enlightening, powerful and tragic. Meet at the Elegba Folklore Society where the adventure begins.

For more information on these and other sites, contact www.visitrichmondva.org.

Pancakes and Paddleboats

When two fun places come together, it’s a win-win situation. The Old Spanish Sugar Mill Restaurant sits inside the De LeonSprings State Park in De Leon Springs, Florida. The park is named after the Spaniard, Juan Ponce de Leon, who explored Florida in the 16^th century – and who is said to have discovered the Fountain of Youth. The park area eventually became a plantation that grew, among other plants, sugar cane. All that remains of the sugar mill is a chimney. A small on-site museum expands on the location’s history all the way back to 8,000 when Native Americans roamed the area.

Today’s visitor comes to the park for outdoor recreation, like picnicking and bird watching. Birders have reported seeing 212 species of birds. Many come for the lively water activities of swimming, paddleboating, canoeing and kayaking. Canoeists and kayakers may follow the springs into the Lake Woodruff National Wildlife Refuge where they will find 18,000 acres of lakes, creeks and marshes.

But the draw for many people is the unique and cool experience at the Old Spanish Sugar Mill Restaurant. Most of us have cooked our own breakfast and we have paid to have our breakfast cooked for us, but few have paid to cook their own breakfasts. At this eatery, diners cook their own all-you-can-eat pancakes or eggs right at their table with a griddle in the middle. You may choose apple or banana slices, applesauce, pecans or chocolate chips to sprinkle on the flapjacks and the wait staff serves a variety of breakfast meats.  

De Leon Springs is west of Daytona Beach. On weekends, it’s advisable to arrive early, because the parking lot fills up quickly, thus turning away subsequent automobiles.

Seafood by the Seashore on Virginia's Eastern Shore

I love looking at bodies of water while dining. I don’t mean sitting on the sand eating a sandy sandwich. I mean sitting at a table in a rustic seafarer’s café of an upscale seaside restaurant. Living on America’s East Coast presents many opportunities to satisfy my seaside and fresh seafood desires. 

So recently I visited Virginia’s Eastern Shore. Here are a few of my favorite eateries.

Virginia Beach

Bubba’s Restaurant sits so close to Lynnhaven Inlet that, from inside, it appears to float. Picture windows wrap around three walls of the dining room, filled with long tables. My group sat indoors, but there’s a covered deck where you can enjoy your food accompanied by the sounds of seagulls and lapping water.

I ordered the Eastern Shore sandwich. The oysters were plump, moist, lightly coated and crisply fired. They snuggled close to the best coleslaw ever – a white and purple cabbage mixture with a piquant dressing.

The Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Tunnel

Imagine eating a full hot breakfast in the center of a 17½-mile bridge. You, too, can experience this unique experience at the Chesapeake Grill, a full-service café that prepares breakfast, lunch and dinner, using mostly locally-grown ingredients and fresh seafood. In their gift shop, you can pick up some local products, including the highly-rated Virginia wines.

Cape Charles

The historic Victorian town of CapeCharles, I admit, perfectly fits the title of “sleepy.” No malls, traffic lights, hustle or bustle – perfect for a family vacation or lover’s getaway. Since I wasn’t there with my family or my lover, I went for the food.

Located in the Bay Creek Resort’s upscale Marina Village is Aqua, a handsome restaurant that features meat and pasta dishes, along with fresh seafood creations. We lunched in the dining room with a stunning view of the bay. They passed around a tasty appetizer of fried calamari with onions and chilies. For my entrée, I chose Aqua’s Signature Crab Cake Sandwich with fries, cole slaw and chipotle aioli. The crab cakes were meaty with no detectable filler.

We were treated to goodies brought by Pamela Barefoot of the Blue Crab Bay Company that specializes in gourmet foods, condiments, gifts and stoneware. I couldn’t stop snacking on the spicy honey peanuts.

There were some good inland restaurants, too, but I’ll mention them at another time.

Young Elvis Visits Tupelo's Hardware Store

We all know that chance can change our lives: an accidental meeting, buying a lucky lottery ticket, being discovered by a Hollywood talent scout as you work in a drug store (former movie star Lana Turner), missing the last plane… you get the picture. In the tiny hill town of Tupelo, Mississippi, they attribute Elvis Presley’s enormous success to a piece of luck.

When I visited the store, the manager, Howard Hite, told us the story. According to a letter written by Forrest L. Bobo who was a clerk at the store at that time, Elvis’ mother, Gladys, brought him to the store for him to spend money that he had earned running errands for folks. Once there, ten-year-old Elvis wanted a 22 cal. rifle. Gladys wasn’t having any of that – she wanted him buy a guitar. Mr. Bobo showed him the rifle first, and then let him look at the guitar. Elvis played with the instrument for a while and liked it.

Unfortunately, the boy didn’t have enough money to purchase the guitar that cost $7.75 plus 2% sales tax. Gladys said that if he would take the guitar over the weapon, she’d make up the difference. That was the start of something big.

Mr. Hite weaves that tale and others when people stop by the store. He told us that 2,000 national and international tourists visit this old-fashioned hardware story each year, including the rich and famous. He said that Joe Perry of Arrowsmith bought a Sunburst guitar when he was there, and Prince Albert of Monaco, a big Elvis fan, stopped by. A busload of Japanese tourists had just been there the week before. When I was there, I met the Verheijen family from the Netherlands.

It’s an interesting place to stop in to browse, shop and hear some really cool stories whenever you’re in Tupelo.

Quebec City's New France Festival

As I passed through the gateway of the oldest walled city in North America, I could hear a buzz of excitement. Hoards of visitors swarmed the cobblestone streets. They had come to Canada to join the people of Quebec City in the celebration of their French heritage. For 15 years, the citizens of the UNESCO-protected site have partied in the streets for five days and nights during Les Fetes de la Nouvelle France or The New France Festival.

It takes place in early August in Quebec's Lower Town where, in 1608, the first French settlers established their colony on the banks of the St. Lawrence River. The stone buildings that you see today have replaced the original wooden structures that were destroyed in the devastating fire of 1682. Festival activities center mainly in this area, but extend to Upper Town, too. Quebec is a walking city on two levels and traveling through the narrow, incling streets is doable. But if you find the walk too challenging, a funicular will carry you up and down the cliff.

I was fortunate enought to be outfitted with a beautiful gown of that earlier time period. Along with my colleagues, I felt that we had stepped back in time. Dressed in styles from the 17th and 18th centuries, Canadian men, women and children were transformed into the aristocracy, farmers, merchants, soldiers, clergy, trappers, buccaneers and the others who inhabited the early settlement -- with even a few folks representing the native people of the region. Those of us in costume paraded through Old Town behind a band that was dressed in historic uniforms.

Later, my companions and I wandered about, enjoying some of the many street performers, musicians and story-tellers. Characters on stilts entertained us festival-goers. The highlight of the day may have been the authentic marriage ceremony performed in the Place Royale where the wedding party was dressed in historic costumes. In an open-air marketplace, we sampled local foods, wines and beers. There, we relaxed in a shaded pavilion, and listened to live music while savoring our bread, cheese and white wine. In nearby restaurants, "17th century" waiters and wenches served traditional French dishes (with a distinct French-Canadian flavor, of course). You hear French spoken everywhere, although most people understand English, and signs and menus are in both languages.

The New France Festival is unique, and shouldn't be missed. Look for it next year from the first Wednesday to the first Sunday in August.

(This is an excerpt from my article on American Airlines Black Atlas.)

Lobster Dinners in Maine

If you love lobster, get thee to Maine. They can be found in every seafood restaurant and even in McDonald's. The best news is that the cost for lobsters in Maine is quite reasonable. I also learned they are fresher in Maine, meaning more tender and better tasting. How can that be when we see them alive in tanks at our restaurants and markets? Check out their antennae. In Maine, they're long. In our tanks, they may be short. Because after a while in captivity, the little devils begin to nip at their buddies' antennae.

When I recently dined at the Weathervane Restaurant in Belfast, Maine, almost everyone in my party ordered lobster. The wait staff was more than pleased to show the whole lobster newbies the proper way to get to the sweet meat beneath the crimson shells. One smart woman ordered her lobster already de-shelled.

As the sun set, we sat on Weathervane's outside deck on the water, and devoured the tasty crustaceans, watching a typical Maine scene with sailboats floating by and other vessels already docked nearby.

The next afternoon, we lunched at Angler's Seafood Restaurant, a family eatery in Searsport popular with locals. While others in my group ate creamy clam chowder, lobster roll, lobster salad and other sea delectables, I chose the Fried Haddock Dinner, and immediately became a fan of the fish. Two large fillets came covered with a crisp golden batter crust, perfect French fries and cole slaw.

While we ate, the owner, Buddy Hall, brought out two live lobsters in order to school us in Lobster Biology 101. He pointed out the difference between a male and a female, along with other info. Then he had the female (I guess the smarter of the two) perform. She did lobster tricks, like standing on her "head."

The restaurant also runs a motel, called "The Bait's Motel." I bought a T-shirt with their logo to suggest I had survived a night at the Bait's Motel (to fool all the poor spellers).

Milwaukee's Safe House

If you like make-believe, (and I do,) you should stop by the Safe House in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, that was established in 1966. I had been there years ago, and was pleased to find it still around. That proves the sustainability of good things. The popular club/restaurant has a classic spy theme -- shades of James Bond and John LeCarre.

The adventure begins as you skulk down a small, dark alley, looking for a nondescript facade with no sign. (After all, you can't have a secret hideout on a busy thoroughfare with a neon lights.) You enter into a circa 1950's office where a receptionist, named Miss Moneypenny, asks for your ID, regardless of your age. (She's not taking any chances in case you're cleverly disguised.) Then we had to give the password -- that none of my friends knew. In order to get in the club, we were given a silly task to perform. We had to form a human train and chug around the small room. This apparently satisfied Miss Moneypenny.  A wall slide aside and we were allowed to enter the inner sanctum.

Once inside, we viewed a video of our performance on closed circuit TV, and we could watch other people who didn't know the password make fools of themselves, too. One fellow struggled to spin a hula hoop for a long time, until finally Miss Moneypenny took pity on him and let him in.

Our group was give a VIP tour of the place. The owners (a.k.a. Control and the Chief of Misinformation) mix fact with fiction. As we passed from room to room, we saw all sorts of spy paraphernalia,Checkpoint Charlie, photos, games, equipment, artifacts and even a piece of the Berlin wall. In one room, the Milwaukee Press Club meets regularly and many important persons have visited it, like Presidents Obama, Clinton, both Bushes and loads of other politicians, famous journalists, authors and celebrities.

When we left, we took the scuzzy secret escape route out. There's a cleaner exit, but what fun is that?